Computerized Cutting Systems and Supplies – KLIC-N-KUT › Forums › Cutters & Equipment › KNK Zing / Air / Orbit › KNK Zing Air – How to cut Leather
November 8, 2015 at 8:38 pm #4446
Hi all I could use some help. I bought my KNK Zing Air to use to cut leather. I am unsure what blade to use and i can not find any tutorials on cutting leather with the KNK Zing Air. Does anyone have experience with cutting leather with the KNK Zing Air? What weight leather do you used? Do you have any tutorial links you can sure to help please!!
Thank you in advance!November 10, 2015 at 7:00 pm #4468
We’ve cut thin leather at our facility before. I don’t have suggested cut settings in front of me, but I’ll see about getting something for you tomorrow once I’m at the office.
Talk soon!June 10, 2018 at 12:51 am #33340
What were those suggested cut settings for leather? I’m having a horrible time trying to get my zing to cut leather… it cuts vinyl as smooth as butter but my leather is just a guessing game to get it right. I’ve ruined more leather than I’d care to admit. Help please!June 10, 2018 at 10:30 am #33343
There are settings for leather in the table at the end of Chapter 2. That being said, leather can vary so much between one type and the next that it’s very important to keep the following in mind whenever you are optimizing settings for a thick, inconsistent material:
(1) Stabilizing is critical. That means the leather must be stuck down well to a clean and sticky mat. If you see the leather pulling away from the mat as the blade is trying to cut it, then it won’t cut cleanly. Most likely, you’ll need additional adhesive applied to the mat so that the entire piece of leather cannot move during cutting.
(2) Leather that has elasticity will probably not cut. Basically, it’s the same issue as above… the blade pulls it versus cuts it. The same is true with stretchy fabrics.
(3) You should always use small test shapes while optimizing settings. Don’t ever start with your entire project. I prefer using a ring shape for my test cuts so that when I do get a clean cut, I can check to make sure the inner circle didn’t cut into my mat. If it did, then I ONLY reduce the blade exposure (the amount of blade protruding) and I leave the other settings alone. Then, because leather is a difficult material, I will then try a more complicated shape, especially if the design in more detailed. You may find that slowing down the cut speed will be needed and/or an extra pass.
I developed a flow chart to use when optimizing settings. This will guide you in knowing which settings should be changed based on the results you are getting:
Post back if you have additional questions after trying again.
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